Crossing the Street
I crossed the street today.
If you’ve never been to Hanoi, Vietnam, you might not know what a feat that is and why I would feel so proud about being able to accomplish it.

Let me set the stage. In a city of about 4 million, there are very, very few traffic lights or stop signs. In fact, they seem non-existent. That used to work when the traffic consisted of bicycles, but picture the streets of today, clogged with an endlessly moving stream of bicycles, motor scooters and cars, and you get an idea of the difficulty of crossing the street. It looks impossible.
I’m visiting my friend who has been an expat here for almost five years. (She’s a photojournalist and interculturalist; her husband is a labor relations mediator helping the Vietnamese move into a market economy.) They talk about the traffic and crossing the street as a cultural experience.
Hanoi is a city galloping into the modern world. Your first impression as you drive into the city from the airport is the traffic! All the vehicles honk at each other–all the time–and it doesn’t make any sense. That first trip into the city is a hair-raising experience that makes you want to close your eyes and pray. But, actually, as it turns out, there is a rhythm and flow to the traffic. Like other cultural phenomena, you just need to understand it to be able to see the logic that exists under the surface.
The Vietnamese are Buddhists, and as such, seek harmony. My expat friend, Brenda, explains that they are “yielding” rather than competitive in their driving habits, and that the honking is simply to alert others to their presence.
So, crossing the street amid the never-ending flow? I was assured that if I just kept my eyes open to the traffic and made eye contact with the drivers and kept moving slowly and predictably, the traffic would just open and go around me!
I took a deep breath and waded in. We held hands and just began to walk. “Don’t freeze,” she said to me, “just keep moving slowly.” And, sure enough, we crossed the street. We did it again and again and the cars and bikes always coursed around us, quite politely, like moving through a school of fish. Indeed, they are not agitated or intense; the feeling is very orderly, in a strange way. But, you cannot dart across the street, nor can you fight it. You have to have a guide on your first cultural crossing.
Now, my next task? To do it by myself!

